Saturday, March 08, 2014

Skiing in Niseko


Greetings from the land of the rising sun!


It's my last full day in Japan which hardly seems possible, but yet is a relief in some ways, too.  Traveling, especially solo, can be a little exhausting after a couple of weeks, so it will be nice to be back in a country where I speak the language and know how to get around.  And where there's Chipotle.  I'm just saying.

Okay, so for the fourth installment of my Japan adventures, we go to Niseko! Niseko is probably the best ski area in Japan, though you may or may have not heard of it.  Probably you're familiar with Nagano, host of the 1998 Winter Olympics.  Coincidentally, the '72 Olympics were held on Hokkaido, the northern island of Japan where Niseko is located.  But I digress.

Hokkaido is called the Alaska of Japan because they get a LOT of snow every year.  Also, I will say that Niseko has probably the best snow in the world for skiing.  I know that's a bold assertion, but Niseko can get up to 600 inches of snow in a ski season.  2-3 feet of snow can fall overnight, and it's snowy and fresh, dry powder most of the winter, so it's great for fresh track skiing. 

So, my trip.  I flew into New Chitose Airport outside of Sapporo, the main city on Hokkaido and had to wait about three hours for my friend who was flying in from Hong Kong to meet me.  She invited me to come up with her and her cousins and assorted friends, and of course, I wasn't going to turn down free lodging.  And I really like hanging out with her.  If you ever fly into New Chitose Airport, please do yourself a favor and give yourself a couple of hours to explore the airport.  It is spectacular.  It's basically like a mall where planes just happen to fly in and out of.  I ate in the "Ramen Dojo" and had some of the best Ramen I've eaten in Japan.  It had Gouda Cheese on top, which I was doubtful about at first, but Good Golly Miss Molly, it was absolutely Spectacular.  I had it on my way out of the airport, too.

Gouda Ramen.  Don't knock it til you've tried it.
 After my meal, I wandered around the airport a little more, and looked around in some different shops and restaurants.  This airport literally has it all.  Somewhat bafflingly, I did see lots of smoking rooms that were for "Adult Smokers Only".  I understand the intent, its just a funny way to phrase it! Kids, you'll have to smoke elsewhere, sorry.

Lots of funny advertising like this all around Japan.

Sorry, kids, you've gotta smoke somewhere else. 


Finally, the Hong Kong contingent arrived and we were off.  After about two hours of driving, I finally got a glimpse of Mount Yotei.  It's called the Fuji of Hokkaido, because it's got the same distinctive shape.  Usually, it's covered in clouds because Niseko gets constantly pounded with snow in the winter.  I felt lucky to see it.  Little did I know I'd see it a lot over the next few days, as there was an uncharacteristic "warm" spell with hardly any snow for a few days (a rarity in Niesko). 

The hosts of this trip were the cousins of my friend from Hong Kong.  Don't try to keep the details straight - I barely could and I was with everyone for 5 days! Anyway, they own a BEAUTIFUL house in Hirafu Village, near Hirafu Ski Area.  We were eight people in total.  I got to sleep in a Tatami Room for the first time which was awesome! It didn't hurt that my "futon" was temperpedic!


Outside the House

The next day, we headed out bright and early for our first day of skiing.  I discovered that I am VERY VERY rusty.  I was feeling alright before I got on the mountain, but I swear, every year closer to 30 I get and I feel my body talking to me more saying, "really?? you really wanna go down that hill??" Ha.  Anyway - I skied in the morning with my friend and then in the afternoon had a mini-lesson with one of the ski instructors.  Things were a lot better after that.  Additionally scary, I have two friends who have blown out their ACL's while skiing in Niseko, so I was terrified that I was going to get hurt (especially because I have no health insurance while I'm between jobs!)

  
Me and Rulin - Gorgeous Day at Grand Hirafu

Skis all lined up for a day of skiing at Annupuri
Did the same run about 10 times the last day! I really wanted to get it going at full speed and I did, eventually.
SO much snow and a beautiful sunset heading home from Annupuri

So there was lots and lots of skiing, but also, the people I went with LOVE to eat at great restaurants.  We ate at what I am sure are the very best restaurants in Niesko.  The first night, we had fondue and crepes at The Niseko Supply Company, another night, we had a hodge-podge of Korean Soup, Calamari, Sushi and Noodles, a third night, we ate at Ezo Seafood, a place where you need to book reservations months in advance just to get a seat.  I sat in awe as party after party of walk ins were turned away.  We had amazing crab, oysters, fish, and all kinds of other things I'd never tried before.  It was spectacular to say the least.  The last night, we had one of the most amazing dinners I've ever eaten, at a restaurant called Asperges. It's the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Niseko.  The restaurant sent a shuttle bus to pick us up from the house, drove us 15 minutes out to Hanazono Ski area and we were seated in a vast, open restaurant with only a couple of other parties.

 

Mushroom Soup, Carrot Mousse and Oysters

Salad with a zillion different vegetables

Prawns

The Group!

My most favorite part of the trip, though was getting to to go the onsen and getting a massage at the Hilton Niseko Village.  It was absolutely spectacular.  I skied in the morning, met the group for lunch, then spent about an hour in the Onsen.  Onsens are all over Japan and are volcanically-heated pools that have lots of minerals in them.  This particular one was incredible, looking out over a pond and snowy embankment.  This is not my picture - it's off a Niseko Tourism website, but it is so, so peaceful and gorgeous.

Hilton Niseko Village Onsen
I could've spent an entire day here
Waiting For the Massage - Tea and a hot towel
View out my treatment room window

Sadly, that part of my trip came to a close, and I headed to Tokyo.  Niseko makes it really easy to get to and from.  I took the White Liner bus that left Niseko at 8am, and it got me to the airport just after 10:30.  I had plenty of time to hang out and get ready for my flight. 

Really pretty stopping point on the way back to the airport



Finally, here's a spectacular collection of funny and/or interesting things that I saw while in or around Niseko...


NO LUBBISH!

In the Niseko Gondola


Don't wanna pay to check those ski boots?  Just wear 'em on the plane.

Put your life vest on, then assume your best Brad Pitt pensive pose.  To think about...your impending demise?
Always a good reminder.

 That's all for now, folks.  Get excited because there is going to be a Tokyo Disney EXPLOSION coming soon. 

Til next time,
-The Adventurer



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